Textured Circle Shrug-Long Sleeve Instructions

Long Sleeve with Ruffled Edge for Blue Textured Circle Shrug

Long Sleeve with Ruffled Edge for Blue Textured Circle Shrug

To ensure that I had enough wool to make a long sleeved version of the shrug, I  knitted the circular portion of the shrug, referred to as neck trim in the pattern, before knitting the sleeves. The Textured Circle Shrug pattern is well written. Stephanie Japel instructs the knitter to mark off the areas where the shrug increases to accommodate your bust line. I considered eliminating the seed stitch border but decided in favor of using it since it creates a nice finished look.

What I didn’t realize when I decided to finish the sleeves last was that I wouldn’t be able to knit the sleeves flat as instructed because the neck trim resulted in too tight an area. Therefore, after a thwarted attempt to knit the sleeve straight, I ripped it out and switched to a set of four double pointed knitting needles. For those of you who dislike sewing seams, this is a great solution. There is about an inch under each arm that remains  to be seamed.

Textured Circle Shrug – Long Sleeve Instructions

Note: Using Tess Designer Superwash Merino (DK weight) for my Blue Textured Circle Shrug, I am using size 7 and size 5 needles instead of size 8 and size 6. I knit the smallest size (32-34) because I like my sweaters to have zero ease.

  1. Pick up stitches for sleeve and place them evenly on three size 7 double point needles. (Note: I like to have the last needle have either more or less stitches than the other two needles to distinguish it. Also, I use a hanging row counter to  track rows. I place it a few stitches before the end of the row.)
  2. Knit 60 rows. (If you are following the pattern, follow the textured stripe stitch.) I recommend measuring the sleeve since your arm may be longer or shorter. The goal is to knit to just below the elbow.Here is where you can increase or decrease rows. If you are using one of the sizes where the sleeve decrease, follow these directions.
  3. Change to K1 P1 rib stitch. Knit 10 rows (to row 70).
  4. Switch to size 5 double point needles and knit 60 rows (to row 110).  Changing needles and using a rib stitch help fit the sleeve without making decreases. Here is another place where you should check the size by trying on the sweater to ensure that the sleeve is the correct size for your arm. At the end of this knitting, the sleeve should hit your wrist.
  5. Increase one stitch in every stitch. Use a RL1 for the knit stitches and reverse this to pick up a stitch before the purl stitch. Keep the stitches in a K1 P1 pattern. The idea is to minimize any holes when increasing a stitch while setting the knitting up for the seed stitch.
  6. Change to seed stitch on the next row (row 111). If you have an even number of stitches, K2Tog at the end of the row. Knit 10 rows of seed stitch. This will create a ruffled edge for the sleeve.
  7. Bind off. I continued in the seed stitch for the bind off.

BTW, I love Tess Designer Superwash Merino. I’m using a blue which forms stripes where the color intensity changes. It looks great with the top down approach of the main body of the sweater and the circular portion which creates the front panels and the collar.

Have you made any changes to the Textured Circle Shrug? If so, what did you do?

Related Posts:

Blue Textured Circle Shrug with 4 Modifications

Submitted by Knitted-Yarns Editor-in-Chief

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